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PDM Racing Installations

 

Rear Upper Control Arm Bushing Replacement

 

1. Jack car up safely, and put jackstands underneath rear subframe.

 

 

2. Remove rear wheels.

 
 

3. From inside the vehicle, loosen top strut nuts with a 12mm wrench. CAREFULLY loosen these nuts making sure you do not drop these down behind the rear strut tower. Those with nimble, smaller hands may be better for this task. On S14’s, access to the top shock nuts is gained from the rear seat and parcel tray.

 

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4. Remove the lower shock nut with 17mm socket, and drop the shock out of the way.

 

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  5. Loosen the rear upper control arm outer bolt and inner camber bolts with 17mm and 19mm sockets and wrenches (the inner bolt is your eccentric camber adjusting bolt and is designed with a special offset washer welded on one side and grooved washer on the other).   click to enlarge pic click to enlarge pic
 

This bolt rotates on a cam to pivot the upper arm back and forth for camber adjustment.

 
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6. Loosen the rear front traction link arm bolts with 19mm sockets or wrenches.

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  Next, soak the arms in a bucket of very hot water for 10-15 minutes. This will help the metal-encased stock bushings to release from the arm easier in the press. If you are pressed for time or water, you can lubricate the arms up with WD40 or solvent, but this is a messier method.
 
7. In a shop press with proper dies, press out the stock bushings. The stock bushings are metal enclosed with the rubber poured in place This is a good time to clean up the arms and repaint them with a good anti-rust paint or have them stripped and powder coated.
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8. Lubricate the rear arms and insert the SPF1638K purple or KCA347 yellow urethane bushings by hand.
 

9. In a shop press or in a vice, insert the metal inner crush tube. Note: If you are installing the KCA347 rear eccentric camber bushings, at this point you must decide which position you require the center eccentric metal crush tube. Most people are trying to reduce rear negative camber, so you need to lengthen the rear arms in length where they attach. To do this, position the rear crush tube so that the hole is near the end, making the arm “longer”

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Replacing a 2nd set of bushings on the hub side:
If you have purchased 2 sets of SPF1638K or KCA347 bushings for your vehicle, you must continue to remove more components to gain access to the rear hub.
 

10. Remove rear toe link adjusting outer arm bolt.

 

 

 
11. Remove rear axle cotter pin.
 
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12. Remove the crown washer and carefully peel off the rubber isolator washer.

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13. Using a 36mm impact socket, loosen off the main axle nut with an impact wrench.

 
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14. Push the axles back through the hub and slide the long splines out to remove each axle. Note: often the axles can be galled and stuck, so you may have to use a sledge hammer to pound on the axle ends to loosen them. To do this though, you need to have the rear upper control arm and toe link arm still in place, so it may be a wise idea to do step 14 prior to removing the bushings out of the control arms. A proper ball joint tool can also be used to properly loosen the axle from the hub.

 
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15. Rotate the rear hub assembly away from the car to expose the lower ball joint and remove the cotter pin to gain access to the ball joint nut.

 
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  16. Remove the lower ball joint nut with a 22mm socket.
 
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  17. Using a ball joint tool, loosen the rear hub from the lower control arm. Note: if you do not have access to a tool, you can use a pickle fork. This will require the hub to be attached with the upper control arms so that the hub does not flop around when being struck with the hammer. PDM Racing does not recommend use of pickle forks, as they are hard on the ball joint rubber boot and ball joint itself. If the arm is being replaced with a new one, then pickle forks are fine. Use caution when striking the pickle fork as to not cause shock and stress to the ball joint shaft.  
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  18. With the hub removed, place the hub down with the wheel studs facing down and remove the 4 hub bolts with a 17mm socket.  
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  19. Over time, the hubs will become rusted into the carrier and may require some penetrating oil and/or force to remove them.  
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  20. With the hub removed, the 2 upper hub bushings can be pressed out using a shop press. Once the bushings are pressed out, you can clean up the hubs and have them bead blasted and repainted or powder coated.  
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21. Lubricate the hub holes with the grease, and insert the SPF1638K purple or KCA347 yellow eccentric camber bushings. (If you are using the KCA347 kit, make sure you locate the holes to position the arms inward, or to “lengthen” the arm to push the top of the hub outward to reduce negative camber).

 

22. Push the center metal crush tubes in place using a vice or a shop press.

 

23. Re-install the hub onto the lower control arm, lubricating the ball joint shaft with anti-sieze. Torque down the nut and replace the cotter pin.

 

24. Replace the front traction link arm and the rear upper control arm, and re-install the shock assembly.

Note – ensure you re-align the rear end once you have finsihed with this installation procedure.


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