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PDM Racing Installations

 

Front Lower Control Arm SPF1009K Bushing Install

 

1. Jack car up safely, and put jackstands underneath vehicle.

2. Remove front wheels (you may have to loosen off the lugnuts while the car is still on the ground or have someone step on the brake pedal while the front end is up in the air).

 

  3. Remove front lower splash guard with 10mm socket.  
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4. Remove left and right swaybar endlink nuts with 14mm socket.

 
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5. Remove TC Rod nuts with 17mm socket.

 
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6. Remove strut to spindle bolts with 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.

 
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8. Remove the cotter pin.

 
 

9. Remove the ball joint nut with a 22mm socket.

 
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10. The ball joint is a taper fit and requires a fair amount of force to lift the spindle from the ball joint. Use a proper ball joint tool or you can use a pickle fork and at least a 5 lb sledge hammer. Note ** If using a pickle fork, prior to whacking away, ensure you put both strut to spindle bolts back in and tighten at least one of them. Otherwise, your control arm and spindle will flop around and you will have a difficult time popping the spindle off the ball joint.
 

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Note: If you are intending to reuse your stock control arm, we highly do not recommend using a pickle fork, as it creates undue stress and strain on the front lower ball joint and boot. If you are just replacing the arms, then it is fine.

 
11. Loosen off the inner control arm bolt with a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
 
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12. Hang the spindle assembly back up to the strut or wire it to prevent brake hose damage.

  13. Repeat for other side.    
 

Next, soak the arms in a bucket of very hot water for 10-15 minutes. This will help the metal-encased stock bushings to release from the arm easier in the press. If you are pressed for time or water, you can lubricate the arms up with WD40 or solvent, but this is a messier method.

  14. Install control arm in shop press and use dies to push out stock control arm bushing as a whole. (note – use a block of wood to support the control arm while pushing out the bushing. Otherwise you may crush the control arm from the force needed to remove the bushing.) The front lower control arm bushing is a one piece unit with the center crush tube and rubber molded together.  
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  15. This is what the bushing looks like after being pushed out.  
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  16. Insert the metal outer shell into the arm and press into the arm (make sure you put your block of wood to prevent the arm from being crushed).  
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  17. Apply supplied grease to inside of metal outer shell to aid in sliding the urethane bushing in place.  
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  18. Press urethane bushing into outer shell.  
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  19. Lube urethane bushing with grease and push center metal crush tube into the bushing.  
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click to enlarge pic
  20. Repeat steps 4-19 for other side arm    
  21. Lubricate the front control arm inner bolt well with anti-sieze compound along the bolt length and the threads. (we have found that over time, these bolts will start to rust and have come across some so rusted and galled we have had to torch them out). Remember, Never Sieze is your friend. “ANTI-SIEZE IS YOUR FRIEND” . (repeat this mantra 2-3 times each day when working on your car) Finallly, torque this nut to 65-80 ft/lbs.
  22. Lubricate the control arm ball joint with anti-sieze and thread the nut on by hand. Torque down nut with 22mm socket.
  23. Install supplied cotter pin.    
  24. Install lower strut to spindle bolts (after lubricating with anti-sieze) and torque to 84-98 ft/lbs. (Note** If you have camber bolts, an alignment will be required)
  25. Re-install TC Rod, making sure you lubricate front bolts and threads with anti-sieze. Torque bolts to 65-80 ft/lbs.
  26. Re-install swaybar endlinks. Make sure you do not overtighten the links and squash the rubber/urethane endlink donuts. You want it snug but not binding and compressing.
  27. Install supplied grease zirk fitting on bottom of control arm ball joint. Don’t overtigten. Grease up ball joint with any good lithium or moly based grease. We at PDM Racing now grease all of our control arms before they leave our store.
  28. Re-install lower splash guard, install wheels and torque lugnuts to 75 ft/lbs (again, putting anti-sieze compound on the wheel lugs).
  29. Check all nuts and bolts for proper tightening.    
  30. Lower car and have alignment done if needed.